Another Doom Port To The Atari ST

May 29, 2025 by Lewin Day 7 Comments

Last week, we examined a Doom port for the venerable Atari ST. As is so often the way with this thing, one netted another, and [Steve] wrote in to inform us about a different version under the name DOOM8088ST.

The port is so named because it’s based on Doom8088, which was originally written for DOS machines running Intel 8088 or 286 CPUs. Both ports are the work of [FrenkelS], and aims to bring the Doom experience into the far more resource constrained environment of the Atari ST. There is only very limited sound, no saving, and it only supports Doom 1 Episode 1. Still, it’s quite recognizable as Doom!

Doom8088ST is tunable to various levels of performance, depending on what you’re running it on. Low mode (30 x 128) is suitable for stock Atari ST machines running at 8 MHz. It’s described as having “excellent” framerate and is very playable. If you’ve got an upgraded ST or Mega STe, you can try Medium (60 x 128), which has greatly improved visuals but is a lot heavier to run.

Files are on Github for those interested to run or tinker with the code. Don’t forget to check out the other port we featured last week, either, in the form of STDOOM. Video after the break.

Continue reading “Another Doom Port To The Atari ST” →

IcePI Zero: A Pi Zero For FPGA

May 29, 2025 by Tyler August 32 Comments

The Rasberry Pi Zero is a delightful form factor, with its GIPO and USB and HDMI, but it’s stuck using the same old ARM processor all the time. What if you wanted to change it up with some OpenSPARC, RISC V, OpenPOWER, or even your own oddball homebrew ISA and processor? Well, fret not, for [Chengyin Yao]’s IcePi Zero has got you covered with its ECP5 25F FPGA.

As the saying goes, you don’t tell an FPGA what to do, you tell it what to be. And with the ECP5 25F’s 24k LUTs, you can tell it to be quite a few different things. This means more work for the maker than plugging in a fixed processor, sure, but IcePi tries to make that as painless as possible with quality-of-life features like HDMI out (something missing from many FPGA dev boards), an onboard USB-to-JTAG converter (so you can just plug it in, no programmer needed), and even USB-C instead of the Pi’s old microUSB. There’s the expected SD card on one end, and 256 MiB of 166 MHz SDRAM on the other to make up for the FPGA’s paltry 112 KiB of onboard RAM.

Plus it’s a drop-in replacement for the Pi Zero, so if you’ve already got a project that’s got one of those running an emulator, you can fab one of these babies, spool up some Verilog, and enjoy running on bare metal. It seems like this device is just made for retro gaming handhelds, but we’d love to hear in the comments if you have other ideas what to do with this board– remember that an FPGA can be (almost) anything, even a GPU!

Currently, [Chengin Yao] is not selling the board, though they may reconsider due to demand in their Reddit thread. If you want one, you’ll have to call your favourite fabricator or etch your own PCB.

We’ve seen FPGAs before; most recently to create an absurdly fast 8080 processor. We’ve also seen DIY dev boards, like this one for the AMD Zyntac FPGA. Doing something fun with FPGAs? Drop us a tip! We’re happy [Chengin Yao] did, because this is amazing work, especially considering they are only 16 years old. We cannot wait to find out what they get up to next.

A Simple Tip For Gluing Those LED Filaments

May 29, 2025 by Donald Papp 6 Comments

[Boylei] shows that those little LED filament strips make great freeze-frame blaster shots in a space battle diorama. That’s neat and all, but what we really want to highlight is a simple tip [Boylei] shares about working with these filament strips: how to glue them.

Glue doesn’t stick to LED filament strips, so put on a small piece of heat-shrink and glue to *that* instead.

The silicone (or silicone-like) coating on these LED filament strips means glue simply doesn’t stick. To work around this, [Boylei] puts a piece of clear heat shrink around the filament, and glues to that instead. If you want a visual, you can see him demonstrate at 6:11. It’s a simple and effective tip that’s certainly worth keeping in mind, especially since filament strips invite so many project ideas.

When LED filament strips first hit the hobbyist market they were attractive, but required high operating voltages. Nowadays they are not only cheaper, but work at battery-level voltages and come in a variety of colors.

These filaments have only gotten easier to work with over the years. Just remember to be gentle about bending them, and as [Boylei] demonstrates, a little piece of clear shrink tubing is all it takes to provide a versatile glue anchor. So if you had a project idea involving them that didn’t quite work out in the past, maybe it’s time to give it another go?

Continue reading “A Simple Tip For Gluing Those LED Filaments” →

You Can Make Your Own Ribbon Mic With A Gum Wrapper

May 29, 2025 by Lewin Day 11 Comments

There are lots of different types of microphone, with the ribbon microphone being one of the rarer ones. Commercial versions are often prized for their tone and frequency response. You can make your own too, as [Something Physical] demonstrates using a packet of chewing gum.

Yes, the ribbon in this microphone was literally gained from Airwaves Extreme gum. It’s got nothing to do with freshness or the special mintiness quotient of the material, though; just that it’s a conductive foil and it makes the YouTube video more interesting to watch.

The gum wrapper is first soaked in hot water and then acetone, such that the paper backing can be removed. The foil is then corrugated with a tube press with some baking paper used for protection during this delicate process. The “motor” of the ribbon microphone is then produced out of plexiglass, copper tape, and a pair of powerful magnets. The ribbon is then stretched between the magnets and clamped in place, acting as the part of the microphone that will actually vibrate in response to sound. As it vibrates in the magnetic field, a current is generated in response to the sound. From there, it’s just a matter of hooking up a custom-wound transformer to the wires leading to the “motor” and it’s ready to test. It works off the bat, but there is some noise. Adding shielding over the transformer and a proper enclosure helps to make the microphone more fit for purpose.

If you’ve ever wanted to experiment with microphone construction, it’s hard to go past the joy of building a simple ribbon mic. You can experiment at will with different sizes and materials, too; you needn’t just limit yourself to different brands of gum!

We’ve featured some other great mic builds over the years, too. Video after the break.

Continue reading “You Can Make Your Own Ribbon Mic With A Gum Wrapper” →

2025 Pet Hacks Challenge : Poopopticon Is All Up In Kitty’s Business

May 29, 2025 by Tyler August 6 Comments

After seeing this project, we can say that [James] must be a top-tier roommate. He has two flatmates– one human, one feline, and the feline flatmate’s litterbox was located in a bathroom close to the other human’s room. The odors were bothersome. A bad roommate might simply say that wasn’t their problem, but not [James].

Instead, he proclaimed “I shall build a poopopticon to alert me so I may clean the litterbox immediately, before smells can even begin to occur, thus preserving domestic harmony!”* We should all aspire to be more like [James].

It was, admittedly, a fairly simple project. Rather than dive into feline facial recognition, since it only has to detect a single cat, [James] used a simple IR sensor out of his parts bin, the sort you see on line-following robots. The microcontroller, an ESP8266, also came from his parts bin, making this project eligible for the ‘lowest budget’ award, if the contest had one.

The ESP8266 is set to send a message to a waiting webhook. In this case it is linked to a previous project, a smart ‘ring light’ [James] uses to monitor his Twitch chats. He’s also considered hooking it up to his lazy-esp32-banner for a big scrolling ‘change the litterbox!’ message. Since it’s just a webhook, the sky is the limit. Either way, the signal gets to its recipient and the litter gets changed before it smells, ensuring domestic bliss at [James]’ flat. If only all our roommates had been more like [James], we’d be much less misanthropic today.

He did not, in fact, say that.

Researchers Are Slowly Finding Ways To Stem The Tide Of PFAS Contamination

May 29, 2025 by Lewin Day 67 Comments

If you’ve been following environmental news over the past couple of decades, you’ve probably heard about PFAS – those pesky “forever chemicals” that seem to turn up everywhere from drinking water to polar bear blood. They’re bad for us, and we know it, but they’ve been leeching into the environment for decades, often as a result of military or industrial activity. What’s worse is that these contaminants just don’t seem to break down—they stick around in the environment causing harm on an ongoing basis.

Now, researchers are finally cracking the code on how to deal with these notoriously stubborn molecules. It won’t be easy, but there’s finally some hope in the fight against the bad stuff that doesn’t just wash away.
Continue reading “Researchers Are Slowly Finding Ways To Stem The Tide Of PFAS Contamination” →

3D Print ABS Without A Screaming Hot Bed

May 29, 2025 by Donald Papp 15 Comments

ABS is a durable material that can be 3D printed, but requires a 100° C build surface. The print bed of [Pat]’s Bambu Lab A1 Mini is unable to get that hot, which means he can not print ABS…or can he? By fiddling a few settings, he prints ABS no problem with only a 60° C bed, thanks to a PLA interface layer.

Here’s what’s going on: first [Pat] prints a single layer of PLA, then does a filament swap for ABS (which the printer thinks is PETG with extrusion temperature bumped to 255° C and a tweaked flow rate) and lets the print finish. The end result is an ABS part with a single layer of PLA at the bottom, all printed on a 60° C bed. That PLA layer peels off easily, leaving a nice finish behind.

[Pat] is printing small parts in ABS for a custom skeletal mouse shell (pictured above) and his results are fantastic. We’re curious how this technique would fare with larger ABS objects, which tend to have more issues with warping and shrinkage. But it seems that at least for small parts, it’s a reliable and clever way to go.

We originally saw how [JanTec Engineering] used this technique to get less warping with ABS. As for why PLA is the way to go for the interface layer, we’ve learned that PLA only really truly sticks to PLA, making it a great interface or support for other filaments in general. (PETG on the other hand wants to stick to everything but PLA.)